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Softeners

A water softener removes hardness minerals like calcium and magnesium from your water.

 

 Common Softener Issues & Fixes


These are the problems customers run into most often — and the quick checks they can do before calling for service. 

1. Not using salt

2. Water feels hard

3. Stuck in regeneration

4. Overflow/leaking

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1. Softener Not Using Salt: 

Often caused by a salt bridge or salt mushing.

​A salt bridge is a hard crust that forms above the water line in your brine tank. It makes the tank look full even though no salt is actually dissolving.

​How to Fix It

Press down gently on the salt with a broom handle or long spoon. If it feels solid and hollow underneath, that’s a bridge. Break it up gently until the salt collapses into the water below or 

pour a couple of gallons of cold water on the salt bridge to dissolve. Any salt pellets that have been in contact with water should be discarded and replaced with new pellets.

​Tip: Don’t overfill — keeping the tank half full prevents future bridges. 

​Salt mushing is when salt turns into a thick, wet sludge at the bottom of the tank. It blocks the brine from forming properly.

​How to Fix It

Scoop out the slushy, mushy salt from the bottom. Remove as much sludge as possible. Rinse the bottom of the tank with warm water. Refill with clean, pellet‑type salt. Let the softener run a full regeneration cycle.

​Tip: Mushing happens more with low‑quality salt — pellets or solar salt work best.

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2. Water Still Feels Hard

Check:

  • Is the softener plugged in?

  • Is the time correct?

  • Is the hardness setting correct?

  • Is the brine tank low on salt?

  • Is the unit bypass open?

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3. Softener Stuck in Regeneration

Usually caused by:

  • Power outage

  • Timer error

  • Clogged injector

  • broken piston

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4. Softener Overflowing or Leaking

*Put into bypass if water is running to drain non-stop

Check:

  • Drain line

  • Brine line

  • Float assembly

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Salt Types & Recommendations

Using the right salt makes a huge difference.

​Best options:

  • Solar salt

  • Pellets

  • Clean, low‑residue salt

Avoid:

  • Rock salt

  • Anything with dirt or visible debris

​Tip: Keep salt half‑full — not packed to the top.

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Programming Your Softener

Most softeners need three settings checked:

  • Time of day

  • Hardness level

  • Regeneration schedule

​​If these are wrong, your softener won’t work properly. Refer to your manual, or manufacturer website for instructions. Links for our softeners are provided below.

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Routine Maintenance

A little care goes a long way!​

  • Break up salt bridges as needed

  • Clean the brine tank once a year

  • Keep the area around the softener dry and accessible

  • Replace filters on schedule (if your system has pre‑filters)

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When to Call for Service


If you notice:​

  • Constant hard water or staining

  • Overflowing brine tank

  • Error codes

  • Loud grinding or clicking

  • Water in the salt tank that never goes down

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…it’s time for a technician to take a look.

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Click the links below for manufacturer resources:

links
Stuck in regen
Water feels hard
Overflow/leaking

Housings

Proper maintenance of a Hydronix water filter housing prevents structural cracks, leaks, and water damage while ensuring clean water flow.

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Standard Filter & Housings

Standard residential filter housings come in 10 to 20 inch lengths, and 2.5 to 4.5 inch diameter. 

 

To clean the housing or change the filter cartridge (typically every 6 to 12 months), follow these protocols.

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Maintenance Steps:

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1. Isolate and Depressurize

  • Shut off the main water supply valves before and after the housing.

  • Relieve internal line pressure by pressing the red pressure relief button on top of the cap.

  • Unscrew the Housing: Use an official Hydronix spanner wrench (such as the FW-1, FW-2, or FW-3 depending on your series).

  • Turn counter-clockwise ("lefty-loosey") to unscrew the sump. Keep it upright, as it will be heavy and full of water.

  • ​

**For a stuck filter housing, try these steps: Hold down the pressure release while applying torque, or open faucets if no pressure release; apply two spanner wrenches on either side of the housing for even torque**

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2. Clean and Sanitize: 

  • Discard the old filter cartridge.

  • Scrub the inside of the housing using warm water and a mild, unscented dish soap to clear out sludge or scale. Ensure housing and cap threads are clean and clear of debris to prevent stuck housings. Thoroughly rinse.

  • Inspect the O-Ring; replace if you see dry rot, flattening, tears or it appears stretched or pinched.

  • Apply a thin coat of clean, food-grade silicone lubricant to the o-ring ONLY to keep it pliable and prevent binding. If you get silicone lubricant on the threads, clean thoroughly before screwing housing back onto head.  

Tip: Do not use Vaseline. It is a petroleum product and will degrade the o-ring. It can also get gummy and cause housings to stick. ​

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3. Reassemble and Pressurize:

*Wash hands or wear gloves when handling new filter elements. Minimize or prevent direct hand contact with new filter elements to prevent contamination from your nasty hands.

  • Drop in the new cartridge over the bottom alignment nub.

  • Spin the housing back onto the cap by hand first to avoid cross-threading.

  • Snug it gently using only your hands, DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. Use a wrench only if necessary.

  • Open your water supply valves slowly to gradually re-pressurize the lines and check for leaks.
     

Critical Housing Safety Rules

Pressure Limits: 

  • Ensure water pressure does not exceed your specific model's rating (typically 100 PSI for standard HF45 series and 75 PSI for others).

  • Install a water pressure regulator if spikes or water hammers are suspected.

UV Light Exposure: 

  • Never install clear or opaque plastic housings in direct sunlight. Ultraviolet rays degrade the plastic over time, making the housing brittle and prone to catastrophic bursting. Can promote growth of algae

Temperature Defense: 

  • Protect the housing against freezing temperatures.

  • Standard housings are rated only for water between 40°F and 100°F.

  • If filtering hot water loops, you must use a dedicated glass-reinforced nylon Hydronix high-temperature housing.

Housings

Reverse Osmosis

What Your RO System Does

A reverse osmosis system removes dissolved solids, minerals, and contaminants to give you purified drinking water. It uses a prefilter, membrane, postfilter, and a pressurized storage tank.

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Common RO Issues & Quick Fixes
  1. Slow flow / low pressure

  2. Bad taste or odor

  3. Tank not filling

  4. System constantly draining

  5. Air in the lines

  6. Annual sanitation

  7. Filter change

  8. Membrane failure

  9. No water at faucet

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1. Slow Flow / Low Pressure

 

Symptoms: Trickling water, takes forever to fill a cup

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Quick Checks:

  • Is the tank heavy? (Heavy = full. Light = empty.)

  • Check tank pressure (should be 7–10 psi when empty).

  • Replace prefilter if overdue.

Fix:

  • Drain tank fully → check pressure → recharge if needed.

  • Replace clogged filters.

Call for service if:

  • Tank won’t hold pressure or membrane is clogged.

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2. Bad Taste or Odor

 

Symptoms: Metallic, musty, or “flat” taste.

Quick Checks:

  • Are filters past 6–12 months?

  • Has the system been sanitized this year (ever)?

Fix:

  • Replace carbon filters.

  • Perform full RO sanitatization.

Call for service if:

  • Taste persists after filter change.

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3. Tank Not Filling

 

Symptoms: Water starts strong then dies instantly.

Quick Checks:

  • Is the tank extremely light?

  • Check feed pressure (should be 40–60 psi).

Fix:

  • Replace clogged prefilter.

  • Check membrane flow restrictor.

  • Recharge tank pressure.

Call for service if:

  • Tank bladder is ruptured. Water should not flow out of the air fitting of the tank. 

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4. System Constantly Draining

 

Symptoms: RO drain line runs nonstop.

Quick Checks:

  • Check if the membrane is overdue.

  • Inspect auto shutoff valve.

Fix:

  • Replace membrane.

  • Replace ASO valve.

Call for service if:

  • Drain continues after both replacements.

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5. Air in the Lines

 

Symptoms: Spitting, sputtering, or “burping” faucet.

Fix:

  • Drain tank completely.

  • Refill tank.

  • Run faucet for 2–3 minutes.

Call for service if:

  • Air returns repeatedly.

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6. RO Sanitation (Annual)

 

Prep:

  • Shut off feed water.

  • Drain tank.

  • Remove filters.

Sanitize:

  • Add approved sanitizer to housings.

  • Flush system thoroughly.

Reassemble:

  • Install new filters.

  • Refill tank.

Call for service if:

  • You see biological growth inside housings.

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7. Filter Change Guide

 

Steps:

  • Shut off feed.

  • Relieve pressure.

  • Remove housings.

  • Replace filters.

  • Check O‑rings.

  • Flush system.

Call for service if:

  • Housings won’t seal or leaks.

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8. Membrane Replacement

 

Symptoms: TDS creeping up, bad taste, slow flow.

Fix:

  • Replace membrane every 2–5 years on average.

Call for service if:

  • Membrane won’t seat or system won’t shut off.

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9. No Water at Faucet

 

Quick Checks:

  • Tank full?

  • Feed valve open?

  • Filters clogged?

Fix:

  • Replace filters.

  • Recharge tank.

Call for service if:

  • No flow even with full tank.

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​ When to Call for Service

Visible biological growth

Tank won’t hold pressure

Persistent bad taste

Continuous draining after membrane replacement

Leaks at fittings or housings

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Reverese Osmosis
Slow flow
Bad taste
Tank not filling
constant drain
Air in lines
Sanitation
changing filters
membrane
no water

Dispensers

Water Cooler Quick Start & Sanitation Guide

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Quick Start Instructions

*BEFORE plugging in, please ensure all switches are in OFF postion​*

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Step 1 — Place the Bottle (depending on your model)

  • Top loader- Remove safety seal, place bottle on spike or opening​

  • Bottom loader- Remove cap. Place intake tube inside bottle opening, confirming tube reaches bottom of bottle. Ensure cap is securely in place. Slide bottle into compartment and close the door (pump will not activate with door open)

Step 2 — Let tanks fill

  • Top Loader- Let bottle drain until level stabalizes.

  • Bottom Loader- Plug into grounded outlet, pump will draw water until tanks are full then stop automatically.

Step 3 — Plug in the Cooler

  • Top Loader- Plug the unit into a grounded outlet.

  • Turn on the cold switch first.

  • Turn on the hot switch (if your model has one).

Step 4 — Flush the Spigots

Run water from each spigot for 10–15 seconds:

  • Cold

  • Hot

  • Room temp (if present)

This clears any air pockets and ensures both tanks are circulating properly.

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Quick Daily/Weekly Cleaning (Between Full Sanitations)

These steps keep your cooler fresh and safe without doing a full internal sanitation.

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Daily

  • Wipe the spigots, drip tray, and front panel with a clean cloth.

  • Use mild soap or a food‑safe surface cleaner.

  • Keep the top of the cooler dry to prevent growth around the bottle opening.

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Weekly

  • Remove and wash the drip tray with warm soapy water.

  • Wipe the bottle receiver (the top where the bottle sits).

  • Clean around the spigot bases — these areas collect splash residue.

  • Check for dust around the vents (especially on hot/cold models).

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If you see slow flow or taste changes, it’s time for a full sanitation. (Your cooler should be sanitized every 6 months)

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When to Do a Full Sanitation

  • After illness in the household

  • After switching to a new water provider

  • If the cooler sat unused for more than 2 weeks

  • If you notice algae, film, or mineral buildup

  • If the hot water stops tasting clean

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Customer Safety Notes

  • Never turn on the hot tank before the cooler fills.

  • Never use abrasive cleaners or scented chemicals inside the cooler.

  • Always unplug before cleaning.

  • If your cooler has a child‑safety hot spigot, test it after startup.

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Dispensers
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